Furniture, Wood and Cabinetry Finishing - Stain and Poly on Panel Doors

Apologies for this, either it's a very newbie question or really "out there." But I can't find any guidance or answers no matter where I've looked, and this forum (and entire website!) has been really great so far, so here goes...

This is the first time I have attempted anything like this project, but I would like the results to be nice-looking. I am building flat panel doors for a rustic style hutch/armoire. I'm using beadboard for the panels, and would like to finish them with stain and a satin poly or with Minwax polyshades. I have not yet assembled the elements. Should I stain and finish *before* assembly or *after*? I am concerned that, if I assemble first and then finish after, I will get "puddling" of the poly or the polyshades in the grooves of the beadboard and in the corners where the panel meets the rails/stiles.

Thanks,

Either stain or poly will either partially or completely defeat any gluing you may use to hold your project together.

Assemble, then stain, then finish. I don't suggest polyshades as it is difficult to control both color and finish in the same application.

To even the stain, use a wood conditioner. When applying the stain use TWO brushes and a rag. One brush to apply the stain, a rag to wipe the flat surfaces and a dry brush to clean the areas where the stain may puddle. Keep the dry brush dry by wiping on old rags or paper towels.

Applying the poly to avoid puddling is relatively easy. Use a brush-on on the flat areas and use an aerosol (same brand and sheen) on the beadboard areas, or other areas of concern.

Thanks, George. I'll start glueing up first. But I have to admit, my preference would have been to use the Polyshades. I have already used three coats of Polyshades Old Maple finish on some wood beams in the same room. (See: http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=98669
It really worked to reduce the grain marks, by the way. The poly undercoat seemed to seal the wood well, and the polyshades left a nice deep color with just enough of the grain showing through.)
I was hoping I could get these doors to match or come close. So are there any tricks to deal with the corners and beadboard with a brush application of Polyshades, not a spray on?

I can understand your concern. I wasn't aware from your initial post that you were trying match something already finished.

The only suggestion(s) I can make is to go slowly, carefully, and lightly. DON'T load the brush. The darker shades of polyshades are the ones most difficult to work with because of the increased pigment. The lighter shades require caution and care, but aren't as bad.

I would also suggest keeping a dry brush handy (perhaps dampened with a little paint thinner) to deal with any runs, pileups, etc., immediately.