Solid Hardwood, Engineered and Laminate Flooring - Problem with sloping floor

I have an addition on my home that has sunk a bit over the years from lack of gutters. The fountation has now been stablized and repaired so it will not sink anymore, but it cannot be repaired to create a level floor. Its perminantly sloped as per the picture. I would like to install some fir plank flooring over this area but I have an issue with a bump and a downward slope on one side of the room where I would like the flooring to be. Is there a cheap way of fixing this? Perhaps I can install some kind of subfloor that would help level it out? The floor is currently Plywood covered in linoleum.
Any suggestions are appreciated. :D

http://www.shuswap.net/moral/floorproblem.jpg

We just had a floor company come in this morning. They said they would either install tapered shims on top of the existing floor or rip up the existing floor and install the shims on top of the joists. We're at our wit's end with this thing. We've tried to fix this from below (the main girder, foundation, etc.), but to no avail. Our last hope is, like you, to just fake a level floor. Keep in mind the many other things you'll have to correct once you get this "level" floor in: windows and moldings will appear crooked, baseboards all have to be reset, the ceiling will not be parallel to the floor. You either learn to live with this or you reset all of those things to be parallel with your new floor. Fortunately (or unfortunately), our windows are in such bad shape that they have to be replaced. When I stick them in, I'll make them level with the floor. Good luck. Keep us posted on developments!

Ya thats a good point, i could install shims under a subfloor but I wonder how it would look overall with the windows and corners especially. I talked to a flooring guy today and he suggested just using a crapload of floor patch to improve the slope and even it out . I think this is what ill do since its a large area and trying to make a level subfloor would be such a pain in the rear I dont know if its worth it.
Ill smoth out the bump so the area remains flat but the taper isnt as noticable

Fixer:

Are they planning on nailing the new flooring? If that's the case you're likely to have problems with the new floor holding that may not be noticeable for some time. Eventually it will break loose from the floorpatch. Here's my solution.

http://bal.ifloor.com/files/60/leanfloor.jpg

Ken Fisher www.floridawoodfloors.net

Since our house was built in 1887, a bathroom was added on to the west end of the house probably 90 years ago. Over time the side attached to the house,12 feet long remained in place but the opposite side has dropped about an inch and a half. We decided to gut the entire room and update. Now there is a schell and the dirt crawl space with the floor joists quite visible. I decided to use joist hangers to give the old joists extra support. I didn't want to tear them out . I was afraid I might weaken the structure and have a worse problem on my hands. I sistered up some 2x6's to the existing joists and leveled them. The old joists are still off but the new ones are level. Worked out great. Put some extra supports and framing between joists to anchor them together. I always over do it but I feel good about the strength of this floor now. Need to insulate around inside foundation, put down some plastic on dirt crawl space for moisture barrier, then I'm ready to put down subfloor. I've never done anything like this before but I'm in constant contact with the man at the lumber yard, the plumber, and a friend who knows insulation . I'm a 59 year old grandma. I hope I entered this post in the right place.

Dear Fixerchix,


That's too bad about your floor i had a similar call i went on last month and got a product from this website that fixed it.

www.squeakender.com

They sell something called the sag-ender, it stops all soft spots and dips.For around $12.

Hope i was some help.

Steve.

This is a good thread. It's hard to find a discussion of floor slopes, esp. those of the two inch plus drop per twelve foot variety. The little dips and sags are easily correctable, but the long, gradual drops are tough.
Ripping up the floorboards and sistering the joists, as mentioned above, is one heck of a lot of work but it's good to hear from someone who's doing it.
Also I like the combo plywood/levelling compound idea...

How do you determine a high spot? Water level?