Whirlpool Duet Gas Dryer Shuts off Flame


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Old 10-01-08, 02:28 PM
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Whirlpool Duet Gas Dryer Shuts off Flame

I have a model GGW9200LL2 gas dryer that is 4 years old and runs on LP. It recently stopped drying clothes.

I pulled the top cover and got the service manual phamplet out of the sleeve there. I pulled the toe panel off and vaccumed out all the lint. I watched what happens when starting a cycle. The flame comes on fully and goes for about 15 seconds and then it goes out. Periodically the flame will come on again, after maybe 1 minute. And then go back out after the same few seconds. So if you run it for 10 minutes you get like 9 short full flame ups.

I then pulled off the rear vent to roof flex pipe and made sure it was clear - ran a yard blower thru it until nothing came out the roof. So I conclude this is not an issue.

The LP gas guy just happend to be filling the underground tank that week and was kind enough to come inside, disconnect the dryer and verify everything is fine at the gas line tap on the wall. So I conclude gas to the appliance is OK.

So I unplugged the dryer.

Then I checked the gas coil resistances, they are all within spec. But just to be sure I swapped them from my in-laws working dryer (one year, different color and newer but same brand/type) and still no joy. So I conclude both gas coils are OK.

Did a continuity test and got tone on the radiant flame sensor mounted on the left of the burner funnel so conclude it is OK. This was done disconnecting one lead first.

Did a continuity test on the high limit thermostat mounted on top of the burner funnel and got tone so conclude it is OK. This was done disconnecting both leads.

Did a continuity test on the thermistor mounted on the blower housing and got tone so conclude it too is OK. This was done disconnecting one lead first.

Plugged the dryer back in.

Did the documented wet towel test on the moisure sensor and got results as indicated in service manual phamplet so conclude it is OK.

Ran the diagnostic self-test described in the service manual phamplet and got expected results (no E codes shown) and software revision code shown so conclude the main control board is OK.

So what could possibly be causing the flame to be shut off and only intermittently come back on for a few seconds to be shut off again? The clothes do not dry except from being tumbled around for hours lol.

Thanx,
 

Last edited by drshock; 10-01-08 at 04:54 PM.
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Old 10-02-08, 03:58 AM
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Usual reasons for your problem are the gas coils are heating up and opening after flame starts. another reason is that the vent is partially blocked. East wat to check vent is to disconnect it at back of dryer and than try ir. If flame stays on for a while you still have a vent problem. Normal operation is flame will stay on long enought to grt to operating temp. than shut offuntill drum cools down than relights.
Let us know how things are going. If you can check coils right after flame shuts off.
 
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Old 10-02-08, 09:33 AM
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Hey thanks. But as I mentioned I have tried another set of working coils from in-laws same dryer brand/type and problem is the same. All four coils tested are within the resistance checks specified in the service phamplet. All four coils work in the in-laws dryer just fine.

Also, cleaned out the vent with blower as mentioned and have now also tried it with vent hose disconnected. Same problem, no change.

Any other ideas?
 
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Old 10-02-08, 02:00 PM
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Here is a link to your machine
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...0LL2&pop=flush
look under bulkhead Parts 42 and 59. In tech sheet there might be resistance readings for thermistor or take the one from other machine and try it. Haven't seen this problem with Whrilpool's but have seen it on other machines. The other part is high limit thermostat usually either good or bad, I can't remember if it is a single open or multi open and close. Will not flame if open.
Only other thing I can think of is a bad control board.
In tech sheet there is a wire diagram follow the circuit with thermostat and all components should be closed (I use a conitunity meter) except on coils. Hope this helps keep us posted on how repairs are going.
 
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Old 10-03-08, 06:04 AM
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Guys read my post before replying! I already said I got the service phamplet from under the top and followed all the diagnostic tests. What I need here are experienced technicians feedback since this is something not obvious.

No resistance values given other than for the coil. Continuity tests pass and that's all the service literature asks the tech to do. Whirlpool only gives resistance values for the coils and they pass - and I tried another set of coils and no change in situation.

I followed all the checks/test outlined in the service phamplet included in the sleeve under the top cover of the dryer. But none of the parts failed - they all passed!

Again, coils, thermistor, flame sensor, moisture sensor, and high limit all pass the tests requested in the service phamplet.

The main board passes the built-in diagnostic test described in the service phamplet.

What do the experienced techs do when this happens?
 
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Old 10-03-08, 07:35 AM
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Same problem on my Maytag

Guys - I have a very similar problem with my 12 year old Maytag. Clothes don't get dry and dryer doesn't seem to get hot. If you start the cycle and open the door within 20 seconds you feel some heat in there, but if you let it run for 5 minutes and open it is very cold.

Opened the front panel to see what's happening: Looks like the drum starts spinning, glow lighter heats up, then good solid flame for 10 seconds - then it just cuts out. Wait about one minute and the cycle will repeat itself.

Searched the web for similar problems and found NOTHING until I stumbled across DrSpock here. (Unfortunately, he only has a problem and not a fix yet.)

Checked cycle thermostat, hi-limit therm, radiant sensor, thermal fuse, and all seems good (at least, all had continuity at room temp). I was stumped - and didn't know how to test the coils. Even studied the schematic to see what could possibly cause this behavior. A big piece of missing info for me is what the theory of operation behind the hold/assist/secondary/primary coils are. Seems there are three coils and I don't know when each should be engaged.

Described what I saw to parts supply guy and he said "CLASSIC case of bad coils". They are strong enough to hold the valve open, but only for a little bit. I questioned if it could be radiant sensor, but he said if that didn't detect heat from glow plug it would have never turned gas at all. So for $20 I got the pair of coils and replaced them. Before installing, I tested the new ones against the old to verify at least something was different. The three prong coil tested the same old/new. The two prong was very different readings. Jackpot- this must be the problem. Installed and ran test with cover off to see what happens. Same frickin' thing. Flame goes out in 10 seconds...

Now it gets interesting... See my next post for what else happened.
 
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Old 10-03-08, 08:12 AM
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Similar Maytg problem - part 2

So here is part 2. I'm (first off PO'ed, but second) starting to think my "test method" of running the dryer with the whole front cover off could throw all the behavior off (this had been something I was thinking about since day 1). Everything I read about the flame going out points to a blocked vent - but I knew that wasnt the problem. (I had been doing all this testing without the vent even connected to eliminate that possibility.) My thought is with the front cover OFF the machine, it behaves much like a blocked vent in that there is no suction/draft pulling the flame (heated air anyway) towards the drum. (The blower only sucks air from the drum and blows it out the exaust. If the drum isn't sealed, the blower is just sucking air from out of the room.)

So I hold a big piece of laminate over the front of the drum to seal it (at least partially) and re-run the test (still had the new coils in). Flame stays on for about 30 seconds until I manually kill the cycle. Who-hoo! Problem solved (I think). Close up the front for real, throw in some wet towels and let it rip. Runs for 30 minutes, exaust is very hot (like it should) and towels come out dry.

So here is my theory. The coil really was bad (recall one of them did test differently from the new one), and probably wasn't able to hold open the valve for the full time needed to get up to temp, but that is probably a lot more than the 10 seconds I was seeing when it would go out. I think when I had the cover off (no draft) the flame was probably letting too much heat build up in the burner cone and triggering the hi-limit thermostat in 10 seconds which cut the gas. It is hard to say for sure since I couldn't lay on the floor and watch the flame, but I am pretty sure when I used the fake drum seal the flame was much more stable and directed as opposed to the blue blob without it.

So Spock - I don't think I helped you since you've tested coils and found them equal. I don't even know if my problem is really solved (only one test load has been ran). But I think you may want to put together some sort of fake seal for the drum up before running your tests. Side bonus: more of the CO gas will go out the exhaust instead of in your house.

If my problem comes back I will do more tests. Probably try putting the old coils in and running with the fake seal to better understand the original problem. But for now it seems to work, I'm only out the $20 to fix the 12 year old dryer, so I'm leaving it alone.
 
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Old 11-01-08, 10:37 AM
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same issue

I've changed thermister, solenoids and high limit sensor. NOthing. same symptoms. Next up is radiant sensor. The only reason I can do this is a live 2 miles from repair clinic.com. Any help?
 
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Old 11-01-08, 12:33 PM
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Have reread Have you tried to use the control board from the other dryer yet? You do not have a common problem but don't think radiant sensor will cause your problem. They are good or bad nothing in between.
 
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Old 11-03-08, 05:02 PM
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I plan to change the control board now. I was trying the cheaper alternatives first but what could possibly change on the control board? The igniter fires, the radient sensor lets the main valve go and it fires up correctly from anywhere from 9 to 30 seconds (I think each cycle gets progressively shorter within a given cycle). It makes no sense.

If you know of or can think of any reason why suddenly your control board can be the source of a problem like this please advise. It worked well for a few years. Gittyup...
 
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Old 11-03-08, 05:28 PM
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Why don't you take your control board to in laws and plug it in there. I know you have checked vent and coils but that is the only thing I have seen that causes your problem.
 
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Old 11-09-08, 11:28 AM
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Pugs, One last observation, let me know your thoughts....

I did finally get this thing to get hot. It came when I removed the 4in. takeawa from the back of the dryer. I know..its the first thing you are suppose to do. But in the beginning I cleaned out everything and I got good flow. i did not think flow was an issue.

Anyway, it still doesn't get red hot and it seems very sensitive to any drag (but much hotter than befor). I am in the process of replacing the outside vent to something that breath's better however my question to you is should this thing be "that" sensitive to a minor amount of restriction? I don't understand it..

What in the machine actually looks a flow? Is it just the temp sensor system or is there some sort of airflow sensor somewhere in this device?
 
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Old 11-09-08, 03:25 PM
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Gas dryer are very sensitive to air flow. What happens is they flame starts and stops without getting dryer hot. Heat will stay in burn area and not flow through dryer. Heats up thermostat and shuts off dryer. Try drying a load of clothes with tube of back of dryer to check. Open door and window in laundry room to vent.
 
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Old 11-16-08, 07:31 AM
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Pugs,

Thanks, that is exactly what is happening. I did run it without the exit attached and it worked great. I purchased a larger exit (threw out the old wall exit) and cut off half the extra coiled exit tube between the machine and the wall. It Is much much better. Best would be if if I could just let the hot air spew into my laundry room but of course won't do that.

My wife is happy, I'm happy. All I put into this was some time.

Lesson - dryers are "very" sensitive to air flow....and just because airflow feels strong doesn't mean it is strong. Pull the exit mouth off and run a load. If you want to confirm exact machine exit temperatures - which I did - then attach about 5 inches of 4 inch tube and put a meat thermometer in the the exit air flow. Its a good way to see hoe differently the temperature performance varies with exit air drag....

Thanks Pugs..
 
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Old 02-19-09, 04:26 PM
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another one bites the dust

Hi,

I have the whirlpool duet gas dryer ggw9200lw1 with the low heat/short flame period problem. Given the advice here and on other sites i replaced gas valve coils, but it didn’t solve the issue. The first flame cycle after the dryer is cold runs for approx 40-50 seconds, then the flame cycle shortens gradually under 20 secs. That does not provide enough heat to effectively dry up the load of clothes. What’s more interesting is that after the gas valve shuts off and stays off for 10-15secs, there is an electric impulse back to coils (2-3sec), which makes a bit of a buzzing sound. Igniter is off during that.

All sensors tested ok, thermistor, thermal fuse are ok and since the first flame is about 40-50 secs i’m assuming the radiant flame sensor is ok as well. Could it be the control board ? I’d like to hear some opinions before shelling major $$$ for part.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanx

PeteV
 
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Old 02-19-09, 04:50 PM
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Read back about 3 post, Read about vent problem and try what was suggested.
 
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Old 02-19-09, 05:56 PM
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Hi Pugsl, I did read the whole thread .... I have literally less than 2 feet of venting. The dryer sits right by the outside wall and all venting is horizontal ... does not need to push the air upwards ... one 90degree elbow, that's all.

There was no change to my venting when the problems started ... and all is squeaky clean ... no obstruction

I will, tho try to remove the vent and run it with open window before I go for the new control board.

Any insight on that second pulse of electricity to coils AFTER it shuts down the valve ? ...
 
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Old 02-20-09, 04:30 AM
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99+% of your type problem is usually vent troubles. Gas coils will start heat up than stop flaming for about 10 or 15 minutes. Clogged vents start and stop, Flame for about 10 to 15 seconds than off for minute or 2. Before you spend $$ look in vent tube from back inside dryer to see if anything got stuck in there, very unlikely but have seen it happen.
Have never seen control board do your problem but I know it says it can happen on tech sheet. Thermistor can also cause this. That is another low probably.
 
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Old 02-20-09, 03:49 PM
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-->INSERT FOOT

If you think/know your venting is clean ... go and check/clean again.

REMOVE FOOT <--

I tried the dryer with another control board AND the vent disconnected. Worked. Tried with my old control board and vent disconnected from the wall ... worked again!

It was the handy wind hood deflector i had installed over the regular flappers the last fall. Its impossible to see inside, but after removed i found it was blocked by icy blob of lint. Gotta love Canadian winters!

Wifie's happy, I'm happy and the $$$ i was ready to spent on new control board goes back to my Beer 4U2 fund.

Thanx folks !!
 
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Old 03-02-09, 11:17 AM
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My Whirlpool Duet Dryer (GGW9250PW3) issue.

I get an intermittent (very intermittent) buzzing noise from somewhere on the burner assembly. I have read this thread and performed all the necessary and suggested tests and fixes. My unit needed a complete and thorough cleaning as well as a clearing the vent of all dust. Airflow is not the issue here.

The flame sensor and high limit thermostat have been replaced. The thermal fuse and the thermistor both check out OK.

The only issue I found was during the gas valve test. The two terminal coil tested to have a resistance of 1320 Ohms between terminals #4 & #5. (spec is 1220 Ohms +/- 50 Ohms). Would this cause the buzzing sound?

Thanks to everyone's help while reading this thread it has been very informative and helpful!
 
  #21  
Old 04-02-09, 02:00 PM
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my whirlpool gas dryer model lgq9508lwd

I replaced the ignitor and solinoid coil on gas valve in my whirlpool dryer and the flame comes on for 30 seconds to one minute and cuts off what is my problem?
 
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Old 04-02-09, 02:43 PM
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Read post 2 or 3 back about cleaning vent. Disconnect vent at back of dryer and see if it runs ok. If it does clean vent to outside. Very common problem.
 
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Old 11-14-14, 12:52 PM
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It is now November, 2014. Too late to help those who posted here years ago. But I recently read this thread because I was having a very similar problem on an old Maytag Model#LDG610. Perhaps others still read it too. My dryer was short cycling also. I followed suggestions in this thread. I took off the exhaust duct. Problem persisted. Duct was clean. Tested things like flame sensor and hi-limit thermostat - OK. Igniter worked. Suspected solenoid coils but they seemed to operate to open the gas valve. In the end I realized I had missed something very simple. It was the blower wheel. Broken. Still turning and so not obvious, but not blowing well enough to circulate sufficient air. The plastic axle hub at the center of the blower wheel had broken off from the rest of the blower wheel. The only reason it continued to turn was that the turning motor axle was turning it by friction, like a person twirling a hula hoop. Not fast enough. Be sure to check the outflow from the dryer when the exhaust vent tubing is detached. The outflow must be very obvious and very strong. When I replaced the blower wheel for about $20, the problem went away.
 
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Old 11-14-14, 03:25 PM
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Thanks for your update, broken blower wheels are very common on Maytags. Not Maytags made by whirlpool.
 
 

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