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Old 11-20-08, 11:07 PM
babzog babzog is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay11J View Post
Set these all to 3, Auto/E is not going to work with your system.

Set these to 0 (same as above on the Auto/E)
Okay... all E's set to the suggested values.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay11J View Post
Other than that, all is wired up right.

I am not able to find a manual , but do you have the dehumidfication wired up?

Also, with the fault code, is there anything showing on the air handler's board?
No, I don't have the vanee hooked up yet.. waiting to see if this unit is going to work with the waterfurnace before I cut and reroute the vanee's wires (to the EIM). The vanee is also really simple ('91 vintage) in that it only has a dehumidistat for the main control (and the option of push button switches in bathrooms, which are not installed). The continuous speed is set at the unit itself. Seems that only two wires go from the EIM to the ventilator anyway so I should be good to go when I do hook it up.

The vanee has no capability of showing a fault (it can show a light on a wall-control to indicate high-speed operation though). When the fault lit up on the IAQ, nothing as well showed on the waterfurnace's LED strip. The error code was onscreen even when the t-stat had reached the set temp and should not have had the compressor on.

Edit: I just checked the voltage on L and there is no significant voltage present. I checked the regular terminals (Y, G, W, etc) by connecting my voltmeter's black lead to common and the red to the terminal (and saw around 24VAC). However, I found that by connecting the leads in that manner to L and C, I saw a "negative" voltage. Reversing the leads (R to common and black to L), I saw about 7VDC and about 18VAC to L. Does that make sense? What voltage (if any) does the IAQ expect to be present on L for normal operation?

Last edited by babzog; 11-20-08 at 11:49 PM.
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